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Ribbon corset part 2: pattern
florialparis
Let's start with the pattern part, which can be difficult sometimes (well to be honest most of the time).

I was drafting the pattern to the size I wanted and it turned out rather curvy at the sides. Maybe a little too curvy. This made me doubt the pattern, so I started to check other ribbon patterns.

There are a couple of ribbon corset patterns out there on the web and in books. There is one in "Corsets and Crinolines", "Waisted Efforts" and there are 2 in "Corsets (by Jill Salen)". This last book I used for pattern inspiration. It seems this pattern is also freely available on the web and it can be found here: http://ladywilhelmine.wordpress.com/tag/ribbon-corset/ (scroll down). I didn't use this pattern, since it doesn't really fit well together (some ribbons are neighbors, but they somehow have completely different lengths).

Then of course there's the wonderful tutorial by Eileen, which can be found here: http://sidneyeileen.com/tutorials/sewing/corset-making/basic-ribbon/
Also the pattern she used is right there to be seen.

When you lay a historic pattern next to the pattern from Eileen, you can see there is a difference. The historic patterns are all curved next to the busk part. For people who "understand" patterns, this will mean that the waist will be curved in at the front.

Now back to my pattern. The back side panel of the pattern seemed to look good. The problem is the front side panel. This one is too curvy at the side. So what did I do?

I checked other ribbon corset patterns to see how their curves are at the side panels. The corset from Eileen is rather curvy at the sides.
Now, I also looked at other patterns.

The pattern I found to be really nice is the ribbon corset from "de Gracieuse" (same as La Mode Illustrée and Harper's Bazaar). It's the ribbon corset from 1902 if I'm not mistaken.

Here is the pattern and the whole pattern sheet. You can print the pattern sheet, but it's small. For those interested in having this pattern: the pattern pieces are 54, 55, 56, 57 and 58. They don't overlap each other in the pattern sheet. They can be found on the left side, upper side and right side.






Ok, I'm going offtopic so let's return.

After I enlarged this pattern to the width of my own ribbon (6,8 cm), I started to compare it with the pattern I had drawn.

I noticed that the front side panel is larger than the back side panel, which is the same case as with my own pattern. This can be explained by the lacing gap in the back.
Also the curve from waist to hip is less dramatic.

So I decided to make the waist to hip part less dramatic by making the waist a little bit larger. After this I found the curve to be tolerable.

After that it was time to finish up the pattern and prepare for cutting


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