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Ribbon corset part 3: cutting and sewing
florialparis
After finishing up the pattern it was time to start cutting and sewing.

*Warning: lots of pictures*


First, here is a sketch of some models. I'm aiming for the upper right corset model.



And of course the ribbon I'm using.



After cutting the pattern out, the first step is to decide the placement of the ribbon strips.
Here the side front panel is shown with the ribbon markings. The red lines mark the bottom of the ribbon.
The marks the upper side and the - the bottom.



The same pattern piece with the ribbon in their future position.



The same step is repeated for the back side part. Here the front side and back side parts are shown. The right is the front, the left is the back part.



After all of this it's time to start cutting out the reinforcement parts for the front, side and back. I used some leftover herringbone coutil from a previous corset.



Since I didn't want to waste much fabric, I placed the side and back part with the grain running up and down the lenght. The front is cut with the grain running parallel to the waistline.

All parts are cut out 4 times, so 4 front parts, 4 side parts and 4 back parts.



I added 1 cm seam allowances all around the pieces.



Here all the pieces are shown. The back is on the left side, the front on the right side.



Now it's time to start with the hard work, copying the pattern to the ribbon parts.

I took a piece of ribbon and put the pattern on top of it. I marked the pattern on the ribbon and all the other marks.





Check if the markings are visible.

Then continue with the other ribbon strips, working down the pattern.



Line up the markings and pin it together, so it stays put.





Continue down the whole pattern and make sure everything is pinned and won't slide. If you find the ribbon sliding away, put some cotton underneath it. It will the ribbon stop moving when you copy the sewing lines and marks.

Here the whole side front part is pinned together.



Now it's time to grab the pattern and make sure it is exactly right.



When it all matches it's time to start sewing.

First sew over the marked lines, which outline the pattern piece.



This is the result.



Now do the same with the other parts and I can't stress this enough: keep yourself focused and use your mind. It's very easy to make exactly the same part when you actually have to mirror it!

This is very important for the rest of the sewing too. Stay focused, keep your mind clear and check everything you do two times.

After finishing the 4 side parts (2 x front side, 2 x back side), it's time to attach them to the side panel.

The back side is on the left, the front side on the right and in the middle the side part. As you can see, I marked the seam allowance and the waist.



Now it's time to pin the ribbon part onto the side. Start pinning at the waist and make sure the stitch line sits right on top of the marking of the side panel.





After it's pinned together from top to bottom, sew directly next to the stitching.



Now it's time to fold the seam towards the side and press it.

Stitch directly next to the seam.



Lay the cotton part (side) as straight as possible and check how the ribbon behaves. Most likely some of the ribbon will curl up and create a bump. Especially near the waist area.



Cut the ribbon, but not all the way to the seam. Now it should be able to lie down straight.



Pin the ribbon edges and stitch to secure them.





Do the same with the back side. Make sure the ribbon ends are out of the way when pinning and stitching.





Continue the same process.



After stitching trim off the excess ribbon.



Now the side is done. Repeat the same steps with the other side of the corset.

Next post I'll continue by putting the front and back to the corset.







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